It's a beautiful day and you are ready to visit the bees to collect the honey, in a premature stage, some of the honey when shaking the comb might drip out which means it is not ready and the frame should be given back to the bees to ripen.
I have always been interested to find out more about how to extract honey since decades. Here I'd like to share more with you about ways to make honey production fun and easy. Although this is not a cooking recipe, nevertheless it's a way to show how you could make up something with tight budget and not too much effort. If you live in a metropolis, forget about it and go back to work! haha
So we start from when the supers are full of capped honey they are ready for
extraction but before you can bring them home you must remove the bees
from them. This can be done in a number of ways:
Using a bee escape of some sort - Porter, Canadian etc.
Using a 'fume' board' to drive the bees down into the brood nest
Brushing the bees from each individual comb
Using a mechanical blower to blow the bees out of the supers
The principle of these is to allow the bees to exit the
super but not allow them to return. The board containing the escape is placed
below the super/s to be cleared (no more than 2 at a time) and the supers
closely covered with a crown board (without holes) or a cloth. It is most
important to make sure the supers and covering are bee tight. There is nothing
the bees like better than to steal back the honey you think you are stealing
from them! Leave the hive for 24 hrs. (12 in the case of a Canadian bee
escape board) and when you return, there will (hopefully) only be a very few
bees in the supers. In some instances the bees will not leave the super.
This
is usually caused by:
a) the bee escape being blocked b) the bee escape allowing
two way passage of the bees c) there being not enough room for the bees below
the bee escape d) the queen having got into the supers and eggs and grubs are
present. or e) the bees are getting access from the outside through a
small gap!
One more technique that I can share with you is that a
quantity of escape boards (at least one per colony) is taken to the apiary and
they are positioned under the supers to be removed. Start at one end of the
apiary and proceed to the other fitting boards as you go. When you have reached
the last one. Return to the starting point and remove the supers (a blower or
brush is useful here) The supers will not be entirely empty, but the majority
of bees will have left.
FUME BOARDS
Fume boards use a chemical which drives the bees away from
the board and thus out of the super. Two chemicals are in common use,
Benzaldehyde and Butric anhydride (BE-GO). Benzaldehyde is oil of bitter
almonds and used carefully is quite safe but it may cause some irritation to
the skin of some people. Butric anhydride is also safe but the smell is quite
objectionable to some people. A fume board is made to the dimensions of
the hive top with 4" deep sides, a piece of absorbent cloth (or
sacking) is pinned to the underside. This cloth is lightly doused with the
chosen chemical. the crown board is removed from the hive, the bees are smoked
moderately and the fume board is placed on top. The smoke makes the bees start
to retreat from the supers and the fumes finish the process. It is very quick
and effective and requires only one visit to an out apiary.
BRUSHING THE BEES
Take to the apiary an empty super, a crown board to keep it
off the ground, and a cloth to cover it. Place the crown board on the ground
beside the hive, the empty super on it and cover with the cloth. Remove the roof
and crown board from the hive and smoke the bees. Remove one frame at a time
from the supers, brush the bees from it onto the ground in front of the
entrance, place the bee free frame into the waiting super and cover. Repeat
until you have cleared all the frames, using the newly emptied super for the
next box of cleared frames.
MECHANICAL BLOWER
This machine blows the bees out of the super. The supers to
be cleared are first removed from the hive and the roof replaced. The supers
are placed one at a time on the roof with the top bars facing the back of the
hive. The blower is directed from behind the hive blowing a stiff blast through
the frames. The bees will be blown to the ground in front of the hive.
There are two main types of extractors - the tangential and
the radial. Each holds a varying number of frames and extracts by centrifugal
force. The difference lies in the way the frames are held within the unit. In the radial extractor the frames are held like the spokes
of a wheel on the radii of the rotor. The top bar of the frame is furthest away
from the centre to take advantage of the slope of the honey cells. Honey flows
from both sides of the comb at the same time.
The tangential extractor holds the frames at right angles to
the radii and the honey is extracted from only one side at a time. Some of
these extractors have a double sided cage and this swings through 90 degrees if
the direction of the motor is reversed. Others (more commonly) are
non-reversing and the frames have to be turned by hand. Extract half
the honey from the first side, turn and extract all the honey from
the second side, turn again and fully extract the first side. This is
to prevent the combs disintegrating under the pressure of centrifugal force.
Always load extractors evenly and remember that pollen and
set honey do not come out and may cause the extractor to swing about over the
floor. If you are going to sell even a small amount of your honey you must
use a stainless steel or food grade polythene extractor. There are many old tin
extractors on t-he market but my personal view is to leave them well alone.
Hire the association extractor until you can afford to buy a 'proper' one! This
will also give you the experience of at least one sort of extractor which will
enable you to make a more knowledgeable choice when you do buy.
THE EXTRACTING ROOM
Honey is incredibly sticky and gets into the most
inaccessible place -when choosing a room in which to extract remember
this!! The kitchen is the most popular place to extract honey;
it has a sink and water supply and hopefully a washable floor (if not put
polythene over it). Put a layer of newspaper over the floor and keep plenty
handy to cover the spills as they occur. (This is not health or hygiene advice)
Remember that wax melts!
Bees away from their hive are not inclined to sting.
Bees carried into the extracting room in supers are normally extremely
gentle, with no brood or queen present. However, they are very adept at
stinging the finger that accidentally crushes them while picking up a frame or
super.
NEVER WASH THE
EXTRACTOR OR OTHER TOOLS IN HOT WATER
You will need a knife or special de-capping fork to de-cap
the honey and a container which to catch the cappings and drippings of honey.
The knife can be heated knife especially for made for de-capping. The container
should be big enough to catch the cappings without them dropping on the floor
and ideally a strainer is in place within it to allow some of the honey to
drain from the cappings. A bridge, into the centre of which a nail is driven,
is placed over the container and the frame is balanced on the nail whilst
de-capping. This allows the frame to be turned easily.
Cut the cappings from the honey as close to the surface as
possible leaning the comb to one side to allow the cappings to fall away from
the frame. Place the de-capped frame-into the extractor and continue until it
is full. Extract slowly at first and build up speed as the frames
empty of honey. Continue in this way until the job is finished.
After extracting the spring flow replace the supers on the
hives for the bees to clean and refill. Having extracted the summer flow the
supers must be stored for next year. There are two things you can do with these
'wet' supers - that is the supers containing the newly extracted comb. Either
replace them on the hives for the bees to clean up then store in a shed,
outside, or on the hives over the crown board ensuring mice cannot get access
to them, or store them 'wet' in a bee and mouse proof place. It is said that
putting wet supers on the hives in spring encourages the bees to enter them,
the down side is that the honey left in them may ferment and smell nasty.
Honey should if possible be strained directly from the
extractor but if it has started to granulate in the comb it will not go through
a fine strainer. In this situation it may be either warmed immediately,
strained and stored in buckets or it may be run straight into buckets. In this
case, before it is bottled it must be warmed until it becomes liquid, and
strained. Of course for your own use you do not have to strain it at all. Honey that is bottled immediately it has been extracted may
set very hard in the jar and be difficult to remove. To avoid this first store
it in honey buckets and when it is required warm it gently until it is runny
enough to bottle.
It is easy to build a warming box for your honey and it may
be warmed by two 40 watt platform to place the honey buckets, under which can
be set the light bulbs. To warm crystallized honey to the point of being able to
bottle it, place the buckets in the warming cabinet at a temperature of 32 C
(90 F) for 3 to 5 days. When stirred this will be at a good consistency for
bottling and Noll not set hard again (probably). To reduce honey to a clear
liquid, you must increase the temperature to 52 C (125 F) for 2 days. This will
take some experimenting with since larger containers take longer than smaller
ones. Do be careful not to overheat honey or it tastes like toffee!
To bottle honey you do need a Honey Gate set into the side
of a bucket at its lower edge. It is no fun to try pouring honey into jars.